06 June 2013

Au Relais d'Artémis

Here's a final post about the restaurant in Bracieux that we really enjoyed last Saturday, Au Relais d'Artémis. First, a view from the main dining room out into the garden: I really like the way the trees are pruned into umbrella (or is it mushroom?) shapes. And again, everything is very green.

The garden at the restaurant Au Relais d'Artémis in Bracieux, near Chambord

As for the food, here finally are a couple of photos of the main courses we ordered. I chose the veal, which was onglet de veau broutard. Evidently, a veau broutard is a calf that has begun to graze on grass — brouter means "to graze." The cut of meat that I had is called onglet, and it's categorized as offal (abats) even though it is red meat. I think it might be called "hanger" or "skirt" steak in English, and it's part of the animal's diaphragm. Whatever it is, it was tender and delicious cooked medium rare or rosé at the Relais d'Artémis.

Onglet de veau broutard

Walt and CHM both chose fish for their lunch. It was filet de sandre, beurre blanc — fillet of zander (pike-perch) with a butter sauce. Zander is a European river fish. The flesh is very white and tender, with few if any bones. Both W and CHM thought it was delicious. It was served with a risotto that CHM said was excellent — creamy and rich, flavored and colored with either saffron or turmeric (curcuma).

Fillet of zander with a golden risotto-style rice
Thanks to CHM for the photo

And I almost forgot the starter course. Since I started this series with desserts, I'll finish it with the entrée. We all three had the same one: Mille-feuille au saumon et asperges vertes. There was both cooked and cold-smoked salmon on the plate, with three asparagus spears per serving. It was also very good, and was a fine introduction to a very nice meal.

A mille-feuille is a multi-layered concoction made with crisp pastry and creamy fillings, usually sweet. It's called a "napoleon" in America. This was a savory version made with salmon.

Okay, lunch at the Relais d'Artémis is over and done with. I hope you enjoyed the upside-down menu. Maybe we should call it Déjeuner à la Tatin.


  1. What lovely pictures - I wish I could do as well. Ellen sent me a link to your blog and I'm so glad she did. What a feast for the eyes.

    I know the region a little bit since we have relatives in Chançay (a cousin with a vineyard who makes Vouvray).

    Hope the weather is as nice there today as it in Versailles.

    All the best,


  2. I have got to stop reading your food postings before breakfast, Ken... you've done it again!

    Zander is probably my favourite fish...
    and served like this, it is a delight to behold.
    Our local restaurant once did the zander in a beaujolais sauce... the red DID NOT WORK!!
    Too strong...
    and the colours just didn't work.
    But since then he has gone back to sauces like this...

    The rest of the meal looks wonderful, too... and the trees are lovely to look at... but I wonder what percentage of your bill goes on their upkeep?

  3. I like the trees too.

    Zander must be in season at the moment. I've seen it on menus a lot lately.

  4. Sad to say there's nothing like Au relais d'Artemis near us and I'm a little discouraged as I think of where to go for our next restaurant meal. Your photos have spoiled our usual restaurants for me.

    Tell Martine maybe we'll be going back to the Belgian restaurant.

  5. holy moly, Ken! that's an amazing meal! thanks for doing these posts and even tho i'm a little miffed there are no cheese pix (kidding!) i've really enjoyed your special lunch! :-D i'm so glad when you virtually take us all with you.

    ps i'm a little disturbed from learning about the fish Zander... that's our biggest dog's name, after Alexander the Great. now a fish. hum.... i'll have to think on this.

  6. OK, Ken, that does it. Book Norma and me on the next flight. I have to go that restaurant.

  7. What a charming place! Setting and dishes are so inviting.

  8. Eh beh, comme ils disent dans le nord, vous avez dû avoir les papilles en délire ;-) !!!


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