Rouen's main market square is called la place du Vieux-Marché. It's not far from the cathedral. Joan of Arc was burned at the stake here in the year 1431. In the 1970s a modern church (not to mention a new covered market hall) was built here and dedicated to her memory.
Inside the church there are Renaissance-era stained-glass windows that were saved during World War II because the glass was taken down and packed up for safe-keeping. The church where they were originally on display was called Saint-Vincent, and it was obliterated by Allied bombardments at the end of the war.
There's a better photo of the church here than the one I got on a snowy day in Februrary 2003. I used to do much of my grocery shopping in the shops and market stalls of the Vieux Marché when I lived in Rouen in 1972-73.
Just across the square from the church of St-Joan are these old buildings. The one on the left, adorned with red flowers, is the restaurant where in November 1948 (a few months before I was born) Julia Child had her first meal ever in France back in the late 1940s. It's called La Couronne and I've had the pleasure of dining there several times in my life.
I do like this church, even though it is reminiscent of the San Francisco’s cathedral, Saint Mary Maytag!
ReplyDeleteThe 16th century stained-glass windows are magnificent.
The covered market fits perfectly in the landscape.
Does this mean that Julia’s career as a famous chef began in Rouen?
I took a photoshopped photo of you and Walt in front of La Couronne. Does that mean both your careers as famous Blogger’s chefs began here?
I can't help being surprised that you are enamoured of such a modern edifice.
DeleteI suppose Ms. Child's career did start in Rouen, since her first French meal was enjoyed at La Couronne. And as for me, I did learn a lot about French cooking when I lived in Rouen. I would have learned a lot more about French restaurants if I had had the spare change back then. I have photos of you, me, Walt, and Jeanine in front of La Couronne, turn by turn. Either you took the photos, or we shared that task.
The year was 1999. This year you Walt and I went to the Orangerie with Mary and Gabby and ended up at the Bistrot de Breteuil. It wasn’t Grand but it was still good. This year also we went to Les Jardins de M. Khan in Boulogne-Billancourt. And also to Vernon and Giverny. And, probably, then to Rouen. I think I took a photo of you Jeanine and Walt, or in the reverse order, in front of la Couronne. I photoshopped that photo to remove Jeanine. Do you have it?
DeleteAnother church I like is Notre-Dame de Toute Grâce du plateau d’Assy!
DeleteEven though I like N-D Toute Grâce, it’s not the one I had in mind which is N-D du Haut in Ronchamp by Le Corbusier. There is a N-D du Bas also in Ronchamp, a 19th century faux gothic uninteresting church.
DeleteIn June 1999, after seeing Giverny, we went on to Rouen, where we took in the views from the Corniche, looked around in the Vieux Marché area, and then visited the ironworks museum of Monsieur Lesecq des Tournelles. Do you remember how hard it rained? The museum, a disaffected 15th/16th century church, leaked like a sieve.
DeleteI have photos of you, Walt, and Jeanine; of me, Walt, and you; and of you, me, and Jeanine — all taken in front of La Couronne. But none of just me and Walt.
DeleteWe knew the cathedral in SF as Our Lady of the Laundromat — we lived nearby. On another subject, when you started talking about Ronchamp, I assumed it must be part of the agglomeration rouennaise, but that I'd never heard of it. As usual, you brought up another subject entirely...
DeleteIt’s not another subject entirely since you were surprised I liked that modern church in Rouen, I wanted to tell you about another modern church in Ronchamp by Le Corbusier that I also like.
DeleteI like the church as well, nice contrast and sculptural. I wish I could remember my first meal in France...I suspect because we went to obvious, touristy places in Paris on the first go round, it may not have been as memorable as Julia's. I do remember being surprised by Iles Flottantes on my first visit, though.
ReplyDeleteDavid, check that mid-century church I mention above. You might like it too!
DeleteAnd she had the Sole Meunière! Have you had that, there, Ken?
ReplyDeleteI think that I saw this modern church, when I was there (but only from the outside).
I frequently watch old episodes of Chasseurs d'appart and Recherche Appartement ou Maison, on You Tube (usually 2018-early 2021 episodes), and the one I watched today happened to be in Rouen! They were doing the drive-by shots of the local scenery, and it was just like what we've been seeing on your blog (though without snow).
Judy, I'm looking for that Stéphane Plaza show about Rouen, but I can't find it. Can you post or send me the URL for it, if you still have it?
DeleteI was finally able to open that last link to the Plaza show about Rouen by first opening my blog in the Opera browser, which includes a free but limited VPN. The VPN (Virtual Private Network) masks my location, so that let me access the restricted YouTube video. Thanks. I enjoyed watching it.
DeleteI had the Sole Meuniere, Judith - it was delicious.
ReplyDeleteThe last time I had lunch at La Couronne, I had a grilled salmon filet that was delicious, garnished with fresh basil leaves.
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