
There more portals on the west front of Bourges cathedral than I could squeeze into one photograph. I only got three of them in my picture on the right. The houses in front of the cathedral were just too close for me to be able to back up any farther. As Henry James wrote of the cathedral nearly 140 years ago, “in front, it is rather too much shut in.” He goes on to describe the façade:
“There are five deeply recessed portals, all in a row, each surmounted with a gable, the gable over the central door being exceptionally high.


...while the bad are dragged, pushed, hurled, stuffed, crammed, into pits and caldrons of fire. There is a charming detail in this section. Beside the angel, on the right, where the wicked are the prey of demons, stands a little female figure, that of a child, who, with hands meekly folded and head gently raised, waits for the stern angel to decide upon her fate. In this fate, however, a dreadful big devil also takes a keen interest: he seems on the point of appropriating the tender creature; he has a face like a goat and an enormous hooked nose. But the angel gently lays a hand upon the shoulder of the little girl — the movement is full of dignity — as if to say: “No; she belongs to the other side.”

I'll let this panel speak for itself. I just like the muted blue color on its background. I it was all painted at some time in the past. Many of the figures depicted on it have been beheaded.

“However late in the evening I may arrive at a place, I never go to bed without my impression. The natural place at Bourges to look for it seemed to be the cathedral; which, moreover, was the only thing that could account for my presence dans cette galère. I turned out of a small square in front of the hotel and walked up a narrow, sloping street paved with big, rough stones and guiltless of a footway. It was a splendid starlight night; the stillness of a sleeping ville de province was over everything; I had the whole place to myself. I turned to my right, at the top of the street, where presently a short, vague lane brought me into sight of the cathedral. I approached it obliquely, from behind...

...it loomed up in the darkness above me enormous and sublime. It stands on the top of the large but not lofty eminence over which Bourges is scattered— a very good position as French cathedrals go, for they are not all so nobly situated as Chartres and Laon. On the side on which I approached it (the south) it is tolerably well exposed, though the precinct is shabby; in front, it is rather too much shut in. These defects, however, it makes up for on the north side and behind, where it presents itself in the most admirable manner to the garden of the Archevêché, which has been arranged as a public walk, with the usual formal alleys of the jardin français.”

James continues:
“As I stood there in the light of the stars, many of which had an autumnal sharpness, while others were shooting over the heavens, the huge, rugged vessel of the church overhung me in very much the same way as the black hull of a ship at sea would overhang a solitary swimmer. It seemed colossal, stupendous, a dark leviathan. The next morning, which was lovely, I lost no time in going back to it, and found with satisfaction that the daylight did it no injury. The cathedral of Bourges is indeed magnificently huge, and if it is a good deal wanting in lightness and grace, it is perhaps only the more imposing.”
All the photos above are ones that I myself took more than 13 years ago. However, since I didn't get a good picture of the cathedral's west front, I have downloaded one that I found on the English-language Wikipedia article about the cathedral. Here's a link to the article and a photo credit:
Photo by JPRoche - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0
I love James description. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteAs far as I know, Bourges is the only French cathedral with five porches. You did a great job with them. I really don’t know how Wikipedia was able to get all five!
I wonder if it's a stitched-together image. Or maybe not, just a very wide-angle lens.
DeleteI bet on stitched.
DeleteLove these pictures. Thanks for including the very descriptive passages by James.
ReplyDelete