10 November 2018

La mijoteuse, or "slow cooker"

The first time I ever used a slow cooker, called une mijoteuse (a "simmerer") in French (or, sometimes, un mijoteur), was in 2014. I decided to order one from amazon.fr. It was a Kenwood appliance with a capacity of 6 liters. The porcelain insert or cuve (vat or pot) that you cooked food in was heavy and, as it turned out, fragile. In other words, it was made of crockery (stoneware or earthenware), and that's why slow cookers are sometimes called crock-pots (Crock-Pot is actually a brand name).


After about three years of use, the porcelain cuve developed a hairline crack. I'll never know if the crack was simply caused by temperature changes, or if I cracked it when washing it in our porcelain sink. The vat, while it worked well as a cooking vessel, was simply too big and heavy to be practical. Once the cuve developed its hairline crack, which was basically invisible, it starting leaking cooking liquid into the slow cooker's heating unit (the "housing"), which was messy and dangerous. Prematurely, I had to get rid of the Kenwood cooker. The one in these photos is the one I use now.


So when I ordered a new mijoteuse, I looked for one with a light-weight cuve. On amazon.fr, I found a Russell Hobbs model that has an aluminum cuve with a non-stick cooking surface. It's great. Its capacity is also 6 liters (same as 6 quarts, basically) and a cooking vessel of that size works well for us because we usually make large quantities of simmered or slow-cooked dishes and plan on having leftovers. In addition, the aluminum pot is light-weight and unbreakable, so it's very easy to wash in the sink, despite its size. (I'm not sure if Russell Hobbs slow cookers are sold in North America...)


The other great thing about the aluminum insert is that you can put it on the stove over a gas flame or on an electric burner and cook in it. That's it above, as it looks when you put it on the stove top. In other words, you can brown meats and vegetables in the metal "crock" and then set it, hot, in the slow-cooker's electric heating unit, add just a little bit of liquid, and let everything braise or simmer slowly. You have just one pot to wash when the cooking is done. Besides, it has high sides so fat doesn't spatter all over the stove when you brown ingredients in it. (Reminder: it's made of aluminum so won't work on an induction burner.)


Actually, I find that meats brown in the slow cooker anyway if you don't add too much liquid to the pot. Let the food make its own liquid. For example, the two turkey legs above cooked in the mijoteuse for 8 hours and came out browned. The key is to add very little or no liquid, and in this case the liquid I added was just a splash or two of white wine (Chardonnay) vinegar and a couple of splashes of Worcestershire sauce. I of course put in herbs (thyme, bay leaf) and spices (cumin, cloves, hot red pepper flakes, black pepper, salt...) too. It's easy to take the meat off the bones of slow-cooked turkey legs and thighs and then make it into pulled meat (that's what we call "barbecue" in North Carolina).

13 comments:

  1. It's for sale on amazon.com but not for use in the US. In fact, one size said, "will not work in the US". For export only. This is sad because I am looking for a new slow cooker and this looked good....I'll keep on looking.

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    1. Maybe there are slow cookers of other brands that have the same kind of cooking insert. I'll have to have a look.

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    2. I see some comments saying the Chefman cooker has an aluminum insert with a non-stick coating inside, but the non-stick coating seems not to be durable at all. The cooker also doesn't seem to have a timer.

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    3. Thickethouse and Ken, I, too, was prompted to do a bit of a search on what is available here in the U.S. I found this Hamilton Beach model, with the aluminum insert, to be the highest recommended, based on all of the criteria used in judging, at this Food & Wine article. In addition to considering the searing capabilities of the insert, they also judged how well the temperatures varied on the different settings (for example, they didn't like models where, when set on "warm" or "low", the temperature remained high enough to actually keep things boiling... way too high). What do you think of that one by Hamilton Beach?

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    4. Thank you, Ken and also Judith....I'll look at these.

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    5. It appears that a lot of people have had trouble with the non-stick coating in these aluminum "crocks" peeling off. I haven't noticed any problem with mine, and I've been using it regularly for nearly a year. It seems to have exactly the same features as the Hamilton Beach cooker than Judy describes. I'm convinced that many of these small appliances are identical or very similar — manufactured in the same factory and then branded by the companies that sell them. That includes slow cookers and deep fryers, for example.

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  2. I like your Russell Hobbs.... digital too!
    The two gender thing seems to be a French anomaly..... we were looking at log splitters.... the brick had two, almost identical.... one maker called theirs a “fendeur”.... the other was called a “fendeuse”.... and they were standing side by side! I have seen other examples.... but always something “mechanical”.

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  3. Mine has a ceramic insert .. not metal .. I bought my own "crock pot" a while back .. then I got one when I moved into the new house ...then I got one when I moved into this house .. I had better not move anymore, too many crockpots/slow cookers..lol

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  4. My impression is that "crock pots" are not used in the U.S. these days nearly as much as Instant Pots, which work both as electric pressure cookers and slow cookers. They have stainless steel inserts, and a saute setting. I never had a slow cooker, but I use my instant pot all the time, mostly as a pressure cooker. I love to be able to throw a pound of dried beans, some water, salt and garlic in the pot and have perfectly cooked beans in 45 minutes (including time for the pressure to go down).

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  5. Worcestershire and white whine sounds like a good glaze. I had to search how to pronounce "mijoteuse." Wasn't sure if the "j" is pronounced like Spanish, which apparently it is. Your turkey legs look great!

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    1. The J and soft G in French are pronounced [zh], like the S of measure, pleasure, treasure, and leisure. By the way, G is always pronounced [zh] in French when it comes before an E, I, or Y. The only hard Gs (as in "got" or "game") come before A, O, or U.

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  6. Thanks for a great idea, Ken. I've bought some chicken thighs this afternoon and we'll do this recipe tomorrow: https://diethood.com/crock-pot-honey-garlic-chicken/?utm_source=justapinch.com&utm_medium=backlink&utm_campaign=pinched-recipe . I usually need 2 pans, as mine has a ceramic insert. I didn't realize when I bought this slow cooker, it being the first one, but you're right, it would be nice to use just the one pan for browning on the stove and then put it in the slow cooker. Oh well, I have enough time to wash that extra pan, but in this recipe I don't even need to brown it. Am looking forward to it!

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