On May 1, 2003, we continued our cross-country trip from California to North Carolina by driving across the U.S. state of New Mexico. We had spent the night in Gallup, a town of some 22,000 near the Arizona border on the old route 66 highway (now I-40). Nearly half the people who live in Gallup are Native Americans — people of the Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi tribes.
Our first stop of the day was at the Acoma Pueblo, a settlement or village that dates back to the 13th century (according to the sign below). We couldn't go up into the village with the dog and it was too hot to leave her in the car. You can't drive up into the pueblo; there are shuttle buses to take visitors up to the top of the mesa (the "table rock" or plateau that it's built on). Only guided tours are allowed. Use of still and video cameras is restricted and by permit only.
I'm not sure I was even supposed to be taking these photos, but nobody seemed to notice me. I took a lot of photos of the surrounding countryside too, and I'm posting some of them in a slideshow below.
Here's a historical marker that gives a brief description of the pueblo, which is the term that describes Native American communities or settlements in the U.S. Southwest.
And here's an excerpt from the Wikipedia article about the Acoma pueblo and the Acoma people:
Today, about 300 two- and three-story adobe buildings stand on the mesa, with exterior ladders used to access the upper levels where residents live. Access to the mesa is by a road blasted into the rock face during the 1950s.
Approximately 30 or so people live permanently on the mesa, with the population increasing on the weekends as family members come to visit and tourists, some 55,000 annually, visit for the day.
Acoma Pueblo has no electricity, running water, or sewage disposal. A reservation surrounds the mesa, totaling 600 square miles (1,600 km2). Tribal members live both on the reservation and outside it.
Contemporary Acoma culture remains relatively closed, however. According to the 2000 United States census, 4,989 people identify themselves as Acoma.
Finally, here's a two-minute slideshow to give you an idea of how rugged and beautiful the landscape in this part of New Mexico is. New Mexico covers a very large territory, by the way — it's about half as big in area as France. It measures 500 km from east to west and 600 km from north to south. But the population of the state is only about two million. Compare that to 25 million people who live in Texas and 40 million in California.
We were on our way to the state's capital city, Santa Fe, for lunch.
What splendid memories!
ReplyDeletemerci, Ellen. They are for me.
DeleteToo bad you weren't able to go up to the village, it is worth the visit. As I recall, most native American inhabitants are potters and they sell their beautiful production. I might be wrong, but I seem to remember there is an Acoma style.
ReplyDeleteI do not have any photos of Acoma because I used a Sony video camera at the time. I still have the tapes, but can't read them!
You picked a good route on your sea to sea road trip. Pueblos are interesting places to visit. It's a shame that disease is part of life and so many native Americans died when our ancestors arrived.
ReplyDeleteThis reminds me how much we enjoyed our road trips in the USA. We'd love to go back again - but not very soon.
ReplyDeleteI am amazed by the New Mexico landscape -- when I went a few years ago, I kept telling my friends that I had never been anywhere like it.
ReplyDeleteI have visited the Acoma pueblo, too, including the Sky City. As CHM stated above, my recollection is also about the highly detailed pottery that was mostly natural clay coloring with black to highlight the detailing. I also remember how hot it was (we were there in February) so if my dog had been with us, I would not have left her, either. Good choice, in my mind, the only choice. The rock formations are amazing as you vividly show in your video display.
ReplyDeleteMary in Oregon
When you travel with a dog, you are limited in many ways. But it's a choice you make. We weren't in the market for any pottery, since we were planning to fly off to France in a few weeks' time.
Deletechm's comments prompted me to consult Professor Google, who said: https://www.acomaskycity.org/main.html?pgid=40
ReplyDeleteI realize, from the pictures, that I've seen that style before. It's quite lovely.