22 March 2020

Home-made sandwich bread and “tuna melt” sandwiches

Over the years, I've gone through spells of ambition during which I've baked my own bread. Some of it was just experimenting, but at other times it was because I couldn't find ready-made bread that I considered good enough. Now we're in crisis mode and can't just jump in the car drive to the boulangerie or supermarché to buy fresh bread. The good French bread we have stored in the freezer won't last forever.

We have several bags of flour, though, in the cold pantry, and yeast stored in the freezer. It's fresh levure de boulanger in the form of a little square cake that we can buy at Intermarché, cut into small cubes, and freeze so we'll have it when we want or need it. Looking around for something useful to do, I decided to bake bread yesterday morning. We also had a one-kilogram bag of whole wheat flour down in the cold pantry. I was tempted to make brioche, but we only have 6 or 8 eggs left in the fridge, and I thought better of using half of them in what is basically a fancy treat.



So I made two loaves of whole-wheat pain de mie, or sandwich bread. Here's a recipe that I found on a site called An Oregon Cottage. It is very similar to the Julia Child recipe for white-bread sandwich loaves that I made last month  — same proportions and similar methods — and yesterday I decided to use a 50-50 mixture of white all-purpose flour (type 55 en France) and whole-wheat flour (farine complète, type 110) to make the loaves pictured here. I substituted fresh yeast for dried, and vegetable oil for the butter in Julia Child's recipe.



Sandwiches are quick and easy lunches to make, so this bread won't go to waste. I have a package of 6 slices of ham in the fridge, as well as both Cheddar and Comté cheese, so we can make croque-monsieur sandwiches. Or hot spinach and cheese sandwiches because I have frozen spinach and frozen kale. We're looking at this period of involuntary confinement as a time to work on cooking and eating as much food from our chest and upright freezers as we can.

Anyway, yesterday I realized I also had a big can of tuna down in the cellier, and plenty of onions. I also had some celery seeds and some cornichons aigres-doux, which are similar to American dill pickles. All that, with some mayonnaise and mustard, can go into a good tuna salad (rillettes de thon in French). So we made the old-fashioned toasted, open-face sandwiches called "tuna melts" for lunch. I can't remember the last time I ate a tuna melt. The whole idea of tuna salad on a slice of bread with melted cheese on top might seem slightly strange, but it was very good yesterday, and certainly nutritious.

P.S. Yesterday's Coronavirus tally in France: nearly 15,000 cases, nearly 600 deaths

19 comments:

  1. I have on hand about 20 packets of tuna in EVO and eat it fairly often, but I have never had a tuna melt. (I usually have tuna salad or tuna sandwiches with
    chopped celery, mayo and pickle relish.) This looks great. We have a lot of cheese at the moment, too.If people stop hoarding there will not be terrible shortages of food........Or so I hope!

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  2. I'm making simple Naan bread when needed. I'm lazy.

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    1. I also make cornbread, either baked or fried as "hushpuppies" — that's easy too. Naan is delicious. Pita bread is easy too and is similar to the little flat breads called fouées in this part of France.

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  3. Both the bread and "Croque Pecheurs" look wonderful.... our dough-maker has been in action, too, and there's a loaf in the freezer as well... there is also a pitta dough recipe in the bread book, so I will try making a batch of fouées.
    What is a "cold" pantry... we have a huge, unheated "cellier" with an insulated door which doesn't remain as cold as I'd like because there is a 'fridge in there.... and Pauline's Dad had an "understairs" pantry with a marble "cold shelf" that was built into the wall and was a narrow shelf outside. I know you don't heat downstairs... but I have never come across the phrase "cold pantry"... do you have another warmer pantry?
    All I am looking for is somewhere that remains at around 4 to 6 Celcius. We can't dig a root cellar here because of the water table... but that is what I'd really like.....

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    1. It's what I call le cellier in English. Just my term, really. It's an unheated, windowless room with a dirt (sand) floor. Ours is on the north side of the house, but it's at ground level, not below, so I don't consider it to be a cellar, even though one of its main uses is wine storage. And I agree with you, ours doesn't stay as cold in summertime as I'd like. Look at this page about cold pantries, which are considered artifacts now. Maybe our cellier could be called a larder in English, a garde-manger in French. We didn't have cold pantries or larders in North Carolina when I was growing up. The summer weather there was far too hot for any room in the house to stay cool before the advent of air-conditioning. The French CNRTL dictionary gives this definition for cellier: Pièce fraîche, généralement non voûtée, située au rez-de-chaussée d'une habitation ou en contrebas ou attenante à celle-ci, servant à conserver du vin et des denrées alimentaires.

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    2. The venting from the bottom... or side in most UK houses with an air-brick was quite common...
      even my parents very modern 1962 house had air bricks at the bottom of what became a utility room... but our previous house had a proper pantry... air brick at the bottom and a pierced zinc grill as a vent/window at adult head height... that also had a stone slab, but it didn't pass through to the elements.

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  4. I haven’t had a tuna melt in years, maybe it’s time to make a couple. It sure looks good! And your loaf of bread is picture perfect!

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    1. Day #8 of the confinement. Today, burritos with pulled pork carnitas, black beans, and rice. Guacamole. Comfort food. Nearly time to walk the dog.

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  5. "can't just drive to the boulangerie or supermarché to buy fresh bread." I thought the French were still allowed to go to food shops.

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    1. Yes, but why would I not be worried about going out into the world right now? Better to stay home.

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  6. I think you're righ there, Ken. Better stay in, unless you really have to! Over here in the NL we still have a bit more freedom to go out, but lots of people are just ignoring the 'safe' distance frome one another, clumping together for a chat, flooding the woods, dunes, beaches, young people seem to think they're invincible, etc. etc. It so annoys me! Health care people are working night and day to save people, and all we need to do, is stay inside/around the house and avoid others. Sounds easy enough, doesn't it? :(

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    1. I might have to go out this week to pick up supplies at SuperU, but I won't go into the building, just to the drive-up location to have groceries loaded into the car. They said this morning that 87% of the people who have died of COVID-19 are over 70 years old, and I'm 71. Scary.

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  7. Your bread posts are always an inspiration. I always think of how nice the house smells when bread is baking.
    I haven't had a tuna melt in ages, but I bet this one was really tasty.

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  8. Oh Ken this looks so good! Like total comfort food. Is that sandwich really called Croque Pecheur? I'm guessing that's some humor.

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    1. Tim's humor, I think. I've never seen anything like a tuna melt in France.

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  9. Encore une bonne idée d'utilisation des boîtes de thon ! Mais est-ce vraiment de la mayonnaise ou une sauce béchamel qui me semblerait plus facile à faire dorer. Merci pour vos recettes et vous avez raison restez chez vous le plus possible. Amicalement

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    1. Oui, c'est vraiment de la mayonnaise (Maille en l'occurence). Après tout, la mayonnaise est faite d'huile (qui donne du moelleux au thon, un peu sec) et de jaunes d'œufs crus (qui cuisent quand on passe le sandwich sous le gril et servent de liant dans la préparation). Ça marche ! Il ne s'agit pas d'une recette que j'aurais inventée. Le sandwich appelé "tuna melt" est un classique de la cuisine quotidienne aux USA, un peu comme le croque-monsieur en France. Regardez plutôt...

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    2. merci beaucoup pour cette explication... je vais essayer, ça a l'air fameux !

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