29 March 2024

Goat's milk cheeses from Romorantin

A few years ago (2008) the woman who used to bring us bread (the opportunity to buy it, actually) 4 or 5 mornings a week was driving a much bigger car than her regular LWV (Little White Van), which is the standard commercial vehicle in this area. That day, she was doing her rounds in what would be called a mini-van over in the U.S. She had to get out of the mini-van and go open the back hatch to get the bread I wanted that morning. Usually she would just stay in the driver's seat of her LWV and grab a baguette or whatever for us.

Madame Corbeau's goat cheeses,
in the style of Selles-sur-Cher

As I looked into the back of the van, I noticed three or four nice-looking goat cheeses sitting on a tray alongside the many loaves of bread. The label  on the cheese was shiny and blue and it caught my eye.

Where does the goat cheese come from? I asked. Romo, Roselyne (the bread lady) said. It looked so good. Je vais en prendre un, I told her. I'll take one — how much are they? €2,90 was the price. I had to run back into the house to get some more money. By the way, Romorantin (called "Romo" by most people) is a big town (pop. nearly 20K) about half an hour from Saint-Aignan and 20 minutes northeast of Selles-sur-Cher.

The cheese under the gray rind
is perfectly white, smooth, and firm

This goat cheese is very much like the cheese my neighbors make at their farm up in the vineyard. It's a little disk with a grayish-black rind and a smooth, perfectly white interior. Local people call it un bleu — but it's not at all a blue cheese like Roquefort or Bleu d'Auvergne; it just has a bluish rind. There are many local producers of such cheeses and they are available in the local supermarkets and  weekly open-air markets too.

That rind is the result of a mixture of wood ash and salt that the cheese is coated with for the ripening process. The ash and salt give the cheese extra flavor. You are supposed to eat it, not scrape or cut it off and throw it away.

Here's a clearer shot of the label

This cheese "selected" by Mme Pierre Corbeau in Romorantin is made in the style of Selles-sur-Cher cheeses, which carry an A.O.C. quality label. If you've never tried goat cheese, this is the one to start with. It doesn't have a mushy texture or a strong goaty flavor like some goat cheeses do. The flavor is distinct but mild, and the texture is firm and almost chalky (but not quite) when it's mi-sec. It's great with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc wine from the Cher Valley (Sancerre, Menetou-Salon, Quincy, or Touraine). I sure do miss having the bread lady stop by to sell me a little baguette or a larger pain or boule several days a week. Nowadays, we have to fire up the Peugeot and make a special trip to one of the half-dozen local bakeries to get bread.

In fact, the boulangerie that's closest to us is closed; it's down in the village center, across the road from the village church. That's a 45-minute walk from our house. Most of the way, there are no sidewalks along the road. The baker pulled down the shutters on March 18. We're hoping somebody will take it over soon and will make bread as good as the other baker did.  I imagine he bought a bakery in a bigger town where the business would be more profitable. That's what the baker who preceded him did. A lot of locla people just by bread in the supermarkets these days. The quality of supermarket bread has improved greatly over the past 20 years.

4 comments:

  1. I wonder, now, what my first goat cheese was... I mean, where it came from. I believe my first taste was at the country house in Avallon, with my au pair family.... Madame Lacombe's father served it up, and also drizzled crème fraîche over it. It was very tasty.
    It is unfortunate about your local bakery closing up, as it was when your local bread delivery lady stopped. Here in the U.S., local mom-and-pop bakeries are pretty rare... all of the grocery stores are big, and have their own bakery section... it wasn't that way 30 years ago.

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    1. I guess we are lucky to still have three bread bakeries in Noyers and two in Saint-Aignan, as well as good French breads in all three of our supermarkets. I do hope somebody buys the bakery in our village and makes bread as good as the bread the last baker made. Maybe I should start making bread again.

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  2. What a beautiful wrapper! This post really makes me want some real French bread and cheese. I tasted my first Sancerre the other day- gosh it was so good! It runs about 25- 35 dollars around here.

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    Replies
    1. I see Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc on our Super U web site for 12.25 euros a bottle.

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