06 March 2023

Poulet au cidre et aux pommes



Yesterday, for my birthday dinner, I cooked a chicken in cider with spiked with apple brandy (calvados), apples, and crème fraîche. I based it on two or three recipes I found on the internet. I bought a Label Rouge farm-raised chicken at the supermarket. It came from a farm near the town of Saulges in the Mayenne département, about 100 miles northwest of Saint-Aignan and near the towns of Laval and Le Mans. That's the southern part of Normandy, or it at least borders on southern Normandy, which is famous for apple cider (I used cidre brut) and apple brandy (calvados, which is like cognac but distilled from apple juice instead of grape juice.)

Don't be confused by the names Maine (on the chicken's label), which is the name of a historical French province that the U.S. state of Maine was named for, and Mayenne, which is the name of a present-day French administrative entity (a département or "county") as well as of a town in the region.

Anyway back to the chicken, the cider, and the calvados. As you can see, the chicken was pretty good-looking. The cider was good too, and I say that as somebody whose doesn't drink much cider. It was sparkling hard cider (brut means dry in this context). As for the calvados, I have long been a fan. Fifty years ago, I lived in Normandy for a year and developed a taste for the local apple brandy.

To prepare the chicken for cooking, there were several options. I could have cut it up into pieces (breast, thighs, drumstick, wings, etc.). I also thought about cutting the bird in half and cooking one half while putting the other half in the freezer for later. Finally, I decided to go all way and cook it the whole chicken. I "butterflied" it. In the U.K., they call that "spatchcocked" and in France it's en crapaudine (because it makes the chicken look a little like a crapaud, or toad. What you do is cut out the bird's backbone and then break the breast bone so that the chicken will lie flat for cooking.


I browned the chicken in a hot oven first, with some onions, garlic, allspice, salt, and pepper. When it was golden brown, I poured nearly half a bottle of cider and a splash of calvados into the baking dish. When all that looked done, I took the chicken out of the pan, added some crème fraîche to the cooking liquid, and let the sauce reduce by about half. Meanwhile, I cooked some wedges of apple in butter in a frying pan, splashed on some calvados, and let the apples brown a little. When they looked pretty much done, I put the chicken and the apples in the baking dish, poured on the sauce, and put it all in the oven for a few minutes to finish cooking and to heat through. Above you can see what it looked like.

The weather was sunny and mild yesterday afternoon,
so I went out for a good walk in the vineyard with Tasha.

18 comments:

  1. A belated happy birthday to you! The chicken looks delicious.

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    1. We had the other half of the chicken for lunch today, and it was even better than it was on Sunday.

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  2. Lovely Birthday Dinner!

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  3. Happy belated birthday.... I missed it yesterday, sorry!!
    That looks lovely!
    Something I think is unique to the UK is another type of spatchcock and that is the barbecue version....
    we can get 1kilo birds... often sold as a pair... and instead of butterflying them, you smash the breastbone with a cooking mallet and then put the skewers through...... it effectively makes the bird an even thickness and is easy to turn on the barbie. The metal kebab skewers work perfectly.
    We'd buy a pack of two and freeze one and do the other [under the grill more often than barbecuing it]... cutting it in half to serve.

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    1. I was browsing through today's Pub.... and lo and behold, in the SuperU pamphlet, a pair of 1kilo chickens sold as a pair... they are called coquelet jaune. I've never seen them before!!!
      A pair will accidentally fall into my shopping trolley this week!!

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    2. In the U.S. those little chickens are called Cornish game hens. In France, coquelets.

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  4. Hi Ken, wondering what the cider gives you versus the calvados in terms of flavor since they're both kind of the same thing...

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    1. The cider is very dry, not sweet. The calvados is sweeter and more concentrated in flavor. Sort of like the difference in taste between dry white wine and cognac.

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  5. Happy belated birthday! Your dish looks beautiful - I love your cooking posts.

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  6. OK, that looks great, I've never done a chicken opened up like that. And happy birthday by the way.
    bonnie in provence

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  7. Bon anniversaire, Chef( Ken! (en retard). I've known that term "spatchcock" but I have never tried it. Your dish and birthday dinner looks fabulous (bien sûr, comme tous vos repas) and delicious. I've never added allspice to any of my chicken dishes - what kind of taste does that add?

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    1. Allspice is a berry that is ground into a spice and gives tastes of cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and cloves to the meats and vegetables you cook it with. I use it a lot in my cooking but I don't overdo it. In France, they sell and use a blend of those same spices but we don't find allspice itself around here. We have to go to an Asian grocery in Blois or Tours to find it.

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  8. I’m late to the party, sorry. Many happy returns on your birthday! Delicious looking dinner.
    BettyAnn

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    1. I told Walt about chez Paul and he and his friend Andy had lunch there on Friday. They both really liked it. I'll try it the next time I get to Paris... who knows when.

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  9. Happy belated birthday Ken! It looks like a wonderful repas! (Christine commenting anonymously)

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