Asperges blanches. White asparagus. That's what we get, locally, and only in season. It's a specialty of the Sologne — the triangle-shaped region bounded by Tours, Orléans, and Bourges — where the soil is sandy. You have to peel white asparagus spears before you cook them because they have a tough, fibrous skin. But peeled and poached, they are delicious.
We had asparagus with hollandaise sauce on Saturday. The sauce is finicky, but I got a batch to work. It's beaten and warmed up egg yolks made into an emulsion (like mayonnaise) with melted butter, lemon juice or vinegar, and some salt and pepper. The asparagus spears and the sauce are served warm, with a lot of bread. We have asparagus once a week during the season, which runs from April through June.