27 October 2023

Shops on the rue Cler in Paris

The rue Cler is on the opposite side of Paris from the place des Vosges. It's a rue commerçante (a shopkeepers' street) that is closed to car traffic. In February 2003, I was spending the last night or two of my trip to Rouen, Saint-Aignan, and Paris in a hotel not far from the rue Cler. It makes a colorful, lively place for a walk, even if you're not shopping for food. There are several restaurants along the street too.

A charcutier is a pork butcher and the shop and the products it sells are called, respectively, une charcuterie and de la charcuterie. This one is also a traiteur, or caterer. The dictionary says that un traiteur is une personne dont la profession consiste à servir des (grands) repas ou à préparer des plats à emporter. Here's a link to the Charcuterie Jusselin's web site.

This produce market went by the name les halles, which means "market hall" or just market. Les Halles is a famous area in the middle of Paris where the old central food market was located. It was transfered to the town of Rungis in the south suburbs of Paris more than 50 years ago. Rungis the name people use when they talk about that market. When I spent two weeks in Paris in 1970 the old market halls at Les Halles were being dismantled and hauled away. For years the neighborhood's most prominent feature was a gigantic, deep hole (un trou) that was dug to accommodate an underground shopping center and transit station. Everybody called it le trou des Halles. I lived in the les Halles neighborhood from 1979 to 1982.

If you want bread or other baked goods, here's the place to find them on the rue Cler.I don't remember exactly where this bakery was located, or what its name was. But the breads etc. look pretty good. I also wonder if it's still in business. Actually, I took this photo in September 2007, on another trip to Paris.

11 comments:

  1. It looks like the bakery is what we call a boulangerie-patisserie.

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    1. Yep. In Am. Eng. it's just a bakery, I think. A bread bakery is what I'd call a bakery where no sweets are made. Was there a time in France when boulangerie mean bread only, and a pâtisserie was a bakery where no bread was made?

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    2. Yes, you’re exactly right.

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  2. We've enjoyed walks along rue Cler :)

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  3. I visited les Halles in '66- late at night for onion soup. It was a busy place and a good memory.

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  4. Was the onion soup memorable, EvelynI ? I wish I had visited Les Halles. Rue Cler is on my future places to visit.

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    1. It was my first taste of onion soup and it was at Au Pied du Cochon- need I say more? Perfection.

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    2. I've reported this before: While in Amboise, I looked at so many menus but I couldn't find one restaurant that served Soupe à l'oignan I wonder if there still is Au Pied du Cochon? I'll check. Merci, Evelyn!

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    3. Yes! Still there! I've made a note of this place and hopefully it will still be there when I get there!

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  5. I visited Paris in 2003 with my child's school trip. My family and I returned in 2005 on our own and stayed at hotel Eber Mars near Rue Cler. Beautiful memories.
    Linda from Alabama.

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    1. Walt and I stayed in this neighborhood three or four times over the years.

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