24 March 2021

Saint-Savin : peintures murales (4)... and a drive in the country

I went out for a long drive yesterday. The morning was chilly, but the sky was a deep blue color and the sun was almost blindingly bright. My trip had two purposes: shopping for groceries and giving the Citroën a good workout to re-charge its battery. The car has been driven so little over the past year that it was getting hard to start it. The battery was too weak. And it's a fairly new battery — I had a new one put in just five years ago. Since I bought the car in February 2015, when it had about 82,000 kilometers on its odometer, I've driven it a total of 20,000 kilometers. That's the equivalent of about 12,000 miles in six years.


So yesterday, instead of just driving the three miles over to our local Intermarché supermarket, I decided to drive to an Intermarché over in Valençay, site too of a famous château. This won't sound like much when I tell you that, as the corbeau flies, Valençay is only about 13 miles from our house outside Saint-Aignan. However, I didn't take the shortest route to get there, and I ended up driving the car about 50 miles (80 kms) by the time I got back home to finish preparing our lunch.


My route took me through Saint-Aignan over to the village of Seigy to the east, and then south to Châteauvieux and on to the pretty village called Faverolles-en-Berry. From Faverolles I headed east again, toward Valençay. I bet I didn't pass more than 15 other cars on that 30-kilometer drive — about 18 miles. I wasn't on a freeway, interstate, or autoroute, and the trip took about 40 minutes. What is that? Less than 30 mph, no? I was in third gear most of the time, and I drove through four villages. I had left home at about 8:30 a.m.


The scenery was beautiful. Green fields, flowering trees, pretty little houses and farms... Even outside the villages, I couldn't go very fast because I had the blinding sun in my face — I was headed basically east, after all. Life here really is life in the slow lane. I wish I had taken my camera with me, but then the trip would have taken two or three times as long. When I got to Valençay (pop. 2,350), things were different. There were quite a few cars in the store's parking lot — 20 or more. There were about a dozen people standing out in front of the entrance, waiting to be let it. It turns out that the Intermarché in Valençay opens at 9:15 a.m. I was a few minutes early, so I just sat in the car and waited, as did a few other people. More cars kept arriving, and the store was actually pretty crowded once I got inside. I wondered if I had made a mistake by going there, but I had my mask on and my bottle of hand sanitizer in the car.


In the store, I picked up a nice lamb shoulder to cook in a day or two, and it cost me about 15 euros — five euros a pound or so. I got a carton, as we call it, of red Côtes du Rhône A.O.P. wine for 12 euros. A carton is six bottles, so that didn't break the bank. I found a bunch of green asparagus — the local asparagus season has begun, but these came from Spain — for a good price (about $2.50/lb.); three big turnips for about the same price, and a nice eggplant for one euro. A package of spicy beef-and-lamb merguez sausages, the kind you eat with North African couscous, cost me less than three euros a pound. I picked up a bottle of champagne for ten euros — Walt loves champagne and other sparkling wines. A pound of farm-made Cantal cheese set me back about five euros. It was a successful shopping trip, and I ended up not having to wait long at the caisse to pay for everything.

CHM 2009

For the drive home, I took a different route. I headed west and slightly south to the town of Luçay-le-Mâle and on to Nouans-les-Fontaines. From Nouans, the road runs northwest to the village called Orbigny, and from Orbigny there's a road that basically runs north, through farmland and forest, to the village of Mareuil, outside Saint-Aignan. There I stopped in the village bakery and picked up three baguettes de tradition and a big loaf of pain de campagne (that was seven euros' worth of bread...). The drive on that route totaled about 50 kms (30 mi.) and took about 50 minutes, so I averaged about 35 mph on narrow, curvy roads and through three villages. The sun was at my back, there was little traffic, and I was back home before 11 a.m. For lunch, we made Mexican-style enchiladas, filled with rice, black beans, and slow-cooked turkey. Some of the Cantal cheese got melted on top, and I had picked up a couple of ripe avocados at Intermarché so we could have guacamole with the filled corn tortillas cooked in a spicy pumpkin-and-tomato enchilada sauce.


The photos here are the last set that I will publish showing the interior of the abbey church in Saint-Savin-sur-Gartempe in 2009. If you want to see more, look at this web site I found this morning. Finally, here's one more of CHM's photos of the inside of the Saint-Savin church.

CHM 2009

18 comments:

  1. These photos (included mine!) are excellent. Thank you Ken and Lumix. Wonderful series.
    The last photo made me think of Prisons by the 18th century Italian engraver Piranesi. Those familiar with his etchings will understand why.

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    1. Thank you for the links.

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    2. O/T-Could it be St. Genou or Tavant the church you could not identify? There are murals in that church too. I don't recall going isude the church when we were there. We did go inside St. Genou's church. though.

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  2. Great photos, I have to remind myself to drive my Mazda. I average about 50 miles a month on it.

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    1. You either have public transit where you live, or places you can walk to easily.

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    2. Ten minute walk to the DC Metro system,

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  3. Oh, cool, there is a nice little video en français on that page that you linked to. More good info.

    Your drive sounds wonderful!

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    1. There are a couple of good videos and also a good slideshow on that site. Thanks for pointing that out.

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  4. Sounds like a full day and a recharged battery. Curious how much wine is in the carton you bought?

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    1. Six bottles — 4.5 liters.

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    2. Wow very reasonable and no doubt good.

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  5. Your long way round trip to the grocery store sounds delightful! And thanks to you, Danielle and I went to Valencay and toured the beautiful chateau. It’s a very nice town.

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  6. Glad you got out for that nice drive. I would love to see Valencay some day.

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    1. Next time, E. The Citroën starts much easier now than it did before my drive yesterday.

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  7. What a nice morning, and lunch.
    We keep reading here that we can't do because it would increase our "low" food prices. But all of the prices you recorded are a whole lot less than the same item our local grocery stores--especially the lamb.

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  8. My comment above got munched because of how I punctuated it. Here's what I meant to say:
    What a nice morning, and lunch.
    We keep reading here that we can't do all sorts of socially-responsible things (pay farmworkers a decent wage, for example) because doing so would increase our "low" food prices. But all of the prices you recorded are a whole lot less than the same item our local grocery stores--especially the lamb.

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    1. Hi Chris, overhead costs — it costs so much to own or lease property in California — must keep prices high. Somebody is pulling down a lot of money, and it certainly isn't farm workers. Overhead here is very low, but free health care (nearly free) for example makes it possible to work for lower wages. And property prices are so low compared to the Bay Area. When I think we sold our house there for 6 or 7 times as much as the house bought here...

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  9. Actually, the "cheap food" argument is usually at the federal level, for example, when some puffy senator is arguing for fuel subsidies for industry. The grocery ads (Kroger) today in Columbus, Ohio and Flint, Michigan show lamb shoulder chops (only cut available) at $12 per pound for four chops and asparagus at $1/pound on sale. Peoria, Illinois didn't seem to offer lamb, but "beef strips" are $10/pound.

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