19 May 2021

Domfront in Normandy

Domfront is a hilltop town on the southern edge of Normandy, about 140 miles (220 km) west of Paris and just 40 miles (60 km) east of the Mont Saint-Michel. It was founded about a thousand years ago around a fortress (un château fort) that was built in that era by order of the local nobleman who also had the abbey church at Lonlay built. I'm posting some views of the surrounding countryside below.

The Michelin Guide (I have the English language version — long story) says that Domfront is spread out along a sandstone ridge commanding, from a height of about 200 feet (70 meters), panoramic views of an area of farmland that is
criss-crossed by hedgerows and planted in pear orchards.

Domfront was a strategic point because its on one of the last line of hills in the southern point of Normandy.
The territories to the south, the Maine and Anjou provinces, were held by the English.
So was Domfront after William, duke of Normandy, conquered England in 1066.

In the 1100s, king Henry II Plantagenet and queen Eleanor of Acquitaine visited Domfront frequently with,
again according to the Michelin guidebook, "their brilliant court of troubadours and poets."

Michelin again: It was in Domfront in 1170 that the pope's envoys "attempted to achieve a reconciliation
between Henry II Plantagenet and his alienated Archbishop of Canturbury, Thomas Becket."

The French took Domfront back from the English and the town was under siege by both sides several times
during the Hundred Years' War in the 1300s and 1400s. It was only in 1450 that the French took control of Domfront
for good. Then it was a Protestant stronghold during the French Wars of Religion in the late 1500s and under siege again.

10 comments:

  1. Interesting piece of history.
    It all looks very green, but what can you expect in a region where it "seldom (!!!)" rains!
    There seems to be a nice Romanesque-looking little church in the second photo's left center.

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    1. It looks like it could be Notre-Dame-sur-l'Eau.

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  2. We visited the town several times over the years of holidays in France. The interior of the church was beautiful and I hope to go back there again.

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    1. There are two churches in Domfront: the one CHM mentions and also the 20th century Église Saint-Julien up in the town. I don't have photos from inside either one.

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  3. There is a third church in Domfront, Saint-Front from the 18th century.
    As for Saint-Julien, it would be an interesting church if, in my opinion, it were not for the ugly faux neo-bysantine facade. On the other hand the architecture of the rest of the church is interesting, exterior as well as interior. Too bad concrete was used there, cheaper, no doubt!
    Many times, the architects of neo-anything go overbord, new & improved, and the result is not very good.

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  4. Ohhhh, now.... anything to do with Henry II and Eleanor, and I'm all ears!

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  5. Me too, Judy! Domfront is a pretty town in a pretty area. Thanks for bringing us here, Ken.

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  6. I love seeing that color green. The first photo is one that I would like to put myself into- it is such a joy to walk down village streets like this one!

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  7. Once again, some perfectly framed shots that really bring out the peaceful fairytale-like quality of these lands today. Certainly they have seen many centuries of wars. I believe I read somewhere that the oldest church, Notre Dame-sur-l'Eau, that chm pointed out down the hill, was partially cut up due to a road expansion at some point. Thanks for these beautiful vistas, Ken.

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  8. If the church of Saint Julien that chm mentions was built post-War, using concrete, perhaps that's what was available then? The ancient forests had been pretty well cut over by that time.
    I hadn't realized that it was in Domfront that the envoys attempted a reconciliation with "that troublesome priest". Wonder what would have happened had they succeeded?

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