In October 2000 and again in June 2001, we spent time walking around the town of Vouvray as well as driving around in the Loire Valley, from Mennetou-sur-Cher all the way west to Angers. If we hadn't spent those two vacations — three weeks in all — we might not have come to live here in 2003. The countryside, while not really spectacular, is beautiful in a calm, bucolic way. The villages and towns are picturesque. The food and wine are excellent. When we decided in 2002 to leave California for France, it was only natural that I started our search for a house in the Loire Valley, though I knew Normandy and Paris much better. We came to France in December that year, and in just four days' time we found and put a downpayment on the house in Saint-Aignan where we've now been livng for 17 years.
A lot of houses in Vouvray are "troglodytic," meaning that they are cave dwellings. The town is built on a fairly steep hillside on the north edge of the Loire river valley. Tunnels and caves were dug into cliffs along the valley and the limestone was quarried for use in building projects. People set up housekeeping in the tunnels and caves in the rock, and nowadays such dwellings are quite comfortably finished and furnished. For example, look at these two "cave dwellings" (troglos) that are rented out to tourists who want to spend time exploring the area. The château you see up on the heights toward the end of the slideshow is called Moncontour and is a wine property nowadays. It has a tasting room and and offers tours of the property.
A very pleasant looking town and I love the china in that shop window.
ReplyDeleteI'm pretty sure that shop was one that our friend Cheryl, who you met, also loved. I think I took her there in 2011, the last time she visited. Maybe in 2008 too — I'll have to look through my photos from that year.
DeleteI remember meeting Cheryl, she was a lovely person. I'm sure you miss her.
DeleteThose troglos look about as comfortable as they could be and are quite attractive. I think I'd rather be in a humble house, though. ;-)
ReplyDeleteWhen we were in Vouvray in Oct. 2000, we took a walk along that path. A man was out in front of his troglo pruning a tree. We talked with him for a minute or two, and he asked us if we'd like to have a look inside his "cave dwelling." We eagerly said yes, of course. It was much more rustic, even primitive, than what you saw on that website.
DeleteWas it Sue or Cheryl you took back to Paris to pick me up for the return trip to Vouvray through Rouen and other places?
ReplyDeleteIt was Cheryl. If you remember, we three had lunch together at Ecole Militaire, in the café called La Terrasse. After lunch, you and I headed to Rouen by car for a night or two. Then back to Vouvray, when it took us at least 12 hours to drive what would normally take four hours! But we saw a lot of interesting towns and châteaux along the way. Good memories.
DeleteNow that you mention it, I remember that lunch at La Terrasse. IIRC, Cheryl has rented something close by.
DeleteThanks for the show. I see pictures of those red-and-white window surrounds a lot, mostly in sort-of central France. Are they all stone, do you know, or is the red painted?
ReplyDeleteAs for troglodyte houses, no thank you. The idea gives me creepy claustrophobia.
I think the red part is brick. That's what it is around here. That style is especially common in the Sologne, near us.
DeleteTerrific slideshow. I would love to see Vouvray in person. I would love to step into that china shop for sure!
ReplyDeleteThanks E. Maybe next summer (if all goes well).
DeleteOnly the virus knows if travel will be happening next summer lol.
DeleteShe was staying for the week at the hôtel Muguet-Eiffel nearby.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDelete