15 February 2022

Senlis : le quartier ancien

These are some photos taken in what the Michelin green guidebook calls le quartier ancien around the cathedral in Senlis. By the way, the church was built nearly a thousand years as a cathedral, replacing a first cathedral that was already more that 500 years old. It was overseen by a bishop, and the town of Senlis (the final S is pronounced) had been a royal city where Frankish kings held court. However, the Senlis cathdral is no longer officially a cathedral, and the royalty moved away many centuries ago. Senlis had earlier been a Roman colony.

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More stained glass inside the cathedral (four prophets)

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The town of Senlis (pop. 15,000) has a very informative web site where you can read more (in French) about the history of the city and the cathedral, including this panoramic view of the quartier ancien. This part of the town was within the walls of the old Gallo-Roman settlement. Senlis is just 30 or so miles north of Paris and only 10 miles north of CDG airport. As a bonus, the famous Château de Chantilly is only 5 miles to the west.

15 comments:

  1. This is an excellent photo of another interesting stained-glass window. I could not decide when it was produced. And you know what? It is the exception that confirms the rule. After a lot of research, I finally found who was the author. And here comes the big surprise. It was made in 1897 by Diogène Ulysse Napoléon Maillard, another Picard painter who was a friend of my grandfather! Kudos to Monsieur Maillard not to be a “sulpicien”.
    Here is a POP technical link from the Palissy base of the French Culture Department. https://www.pop.culture.gouv.fr/notice/palissy/IM60000884

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    1. I have an excellent 1915 portrait of my mother by DUN Maillard. He was influenced by the Impressionists.

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    2. Very interesting. I searched around for information about the windows in the cathedral in Senlis, but I didn't find any information about that one except that it showed four prophets from the Bible. I followed your link and found this note:
      Les cartons du vitrail sont conservés au musée des Beaux-Arts d'Angers. What are les cartons?

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    3. The expression “les cartons” is also used for tapestries. I’d translate that by blueprint. They might be grandeur nature?
      https://fr.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carton_(art)

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    4. It seems that “cartons” are cartoons in English! Who knew?

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    5. Follows the model of peloton/platoon or lardon/lardoon.

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    6. I’m sorry, I misspelled Maillart, with a T.
      Mailard with a D, as in Chocolats Maillard, was my great-grandfather connection in New York.

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  2. It looks like one of the prophets has a shofar. I don't think I've ever seen that in a stained glass.
    CHM, I would love to see the painting of your mother.

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    1. Evelyn, the extrême left prophet is Jeremiah and he plays the lyre to accompany his “jeremiads”. If you look closely with a magnifying glass, you can see two or three strings.

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  3. Senlis is a beautiful town. We've stayed there several times, usually when flying home from CDG the next day. Its proximity to the airport is a real plus.

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    1. That's true about Senlis, even though I've never stayed there. When Walt and I arrived with our dog in 2003 to live here, we left the airport and went directly to Senlis to sort of bathe in the atmosphere of the place and to have lunch in a restaurant there. Then we drove on to our destination for the day, Rouen.

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  4. I would have guessed that the pronunciation was "Sen-lee" without the final s. The own is quite attractibve and I like that maison de charactere in picture number two.

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    1. I like that brick house too, but I haven't found out much about it. The address, if I'm not mistaken, is 2, place Notre-Dame, Senlis. I wonder if it was or is a hotel or B&B, or maybe just a private residence.

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  5. When we went there (during a trip to Paris, so we were training from Paris), we trained to Chantilly, and were then to take a short bus ride departing from the train station. Once we arrived at the train station, I didn't realize that the bus we needed, was slotted to leave within about 5 minutes, and was right outside.... so we missed it, as I was wasting time in the station, double checking schedules, and using the rest room! LOL I walked out and suddenly saw the bus pulling away, 100 feet ahead of me! Soooo frustrated. But, there was another bus, though I think we had to wait an hour.

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    1. Here's my memory of Chantilly. I was living and working in Rouen in 1972-73. Another American from Illinois had bought a 2CV to use during her year in Rouen. So four of us piled in one day for a day trip to see the Château de Chantilly, which had figure in a dialog in the textbook we were teaching beginning French from at the U of I. We made it there fine, and drove up to a building that we thought was the château. We were a little disappointed because it looked a little down at the heels and not in very good repair. But it was impressive. We decided to move on and drive around the town for a bit before returning to Rouen. As we drove on past, there was suddenly the real Château de Chantilly. We were blown away. The building we had mistaken for the château was the property's horse stables!

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