03 April 2019

Couleur locale à Brioude

I regret that I didn't walk into the chapelle Saint-Michel inside the church in Brioude. You can see it in the photo below. I was too focused on seeing the church the way I had seen it pictured in the Michelin Guide, in a photo looking from the western end of the church toward the east and the altar. Oh well... The wall paintings in the chapel date back to the 12th century.


Also, Walt and Tasha were outside the church waiting for me. The weather was cold and windy (though sunny). After my quick look around inside Saint-Julien, wanted to tell Walt he really should go in and look around for a few minutes too. He did, and I waited outside with the dog. I took advantage of the time to walk around the outside of the church, taking the photos I posted day before yesterday.


The pebble floors inside the Brioude church are remarkable. I read somewhere that they were first laid down in the 12th century and then either restored or extended throughout the church in the 16th. The towns of the Auvergne region are striking in part because of all the cobblestone streets everywhere, and here they even become the floor of a magnificent building.



From the Michelin Green Guide:

« L'intérieur de l'église se caractérise par une belle polychromie de pierres grises, rouges, blanches et noires qui proviennent de carrières voisines... Ils s'harmonisent avec le pavement, en galets de l'Allier noirs et blancs, aux motifs géométriques d'arabesques. »

“The interior of the church is characterized by a beautiful polychrome design using gray, red, white, and black stones that came from nearby quarries ... They are in harmony with the floors, made using black and white pebbles from the Allier river, laid down in  the geometrical patterns and arabesques.” 





The town crowds right up to the church except around the eastern end (le chevet), making it hard to get photos of the exteriors. Here's one view from the nearby streets of Brioude It shows the church's "lantern tower" — a tall structure built over the junction of the four arms of a cruciform (cross-shaped) church, with openings through which light from outside can shine down to the building. Many lantern towers are octagonal, and that shape gives an extra dimension to the decorated interior of the dome. The lantern tower was the last part of the church to be built.


I have a series of photos of interior and exterior details of the basilica that I want to post over the next few days. Maybe it's time for another slide show. We're having rainy, chilly weather now, April being cruel and all, so processing such photos to put them in a slide show will occupy my time.

14 comments:

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    1. I agree. I want to go back and take more time.

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  2. Those floors are amazing!

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    1. I agree with that too. I wish I had had more time.

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  3. Thanks for taking the time to share all of this with us, Ken!

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    1. Ever since we started spending time in the Loire Valley in 2000, I'd been wondering what the area called La Haute Loire would be like. Had we moved to La Basse Loire? Now I know, at least slightly. Brioude was a surprise.

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    2. Yes, Brioude is quite a surprise for us all. I'd love to see it some day.

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    3. It was a good discovery. France often surprises. That's why I love living here, as you know.

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  4. In trips we have taken there are things I meant to look at and contemplate but when I got there I forgot them all being caught up with what I was seeing. Wish I could go back in my memories and "see" more.

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    1. Even if you haven't seen everything you wanted or planned to see, you've probably had a great time.

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  5. Unfortunately, my steps - or should I say the wheels of my Vespa scooter - didn't lead me to Brioude those long ago past years and, now, what I see here tells me what I missed. Thank you for these photos.

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    1. I'm just glad we made that stop in Brioude on the way back to Saint-Aignan after spending five nights in the gîte in Le Puy. It was a highlight of the whole trip.

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  6. I've read that a lot of churches in France are being vandalized. It would be an awful shame for vandals to target such a beautiful church as this, or the many others that you have you have shared here on your blog. This one is amazingly beautiful. How I would love to attend a Sunday service in a church like this!

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    1. I haven't heard of a lot of cases of church vandalism, though I'm sure it happens. Many small churches in towns and villages are locked up. Some villages will let you get the key from the mayor's office so you can see inside the church. They often ask you to leave your ID as security. Brioude's church is open at set hours, and on a Saturday morning, when the market was going strong, there were many people there and in the church. That's a kind of security in itself.

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