04 May 2011

Why the weather matters so much

A news report that I heard yesterday on the radio — France Inter — said that April 2011 was the warmest and driest April in France since 1900. Yes, 111 years ago. It sure was the warmest and driest April since 2004, our first April in Saint-Aignan.

Once or twice over the past 5+ years, people have made remarks to me about the prominent place weather plays in my blog posts, and evidently in our lives here in Saint-Aignan. In fact, that's true and it's normal, when some of your main occupations are fixing up a house so that you can live comfortably in it, maintaining a big yard, and putting in and tending a vegetable garden every spring and summer.

The Renaudière vineyard in early May 2011

Making the house comfortable has meant, as much as anything, making it warm and dry. But when we got here in June 2003, the first few months were so hot that I wondered how we would survive in such a place without air-conditioning. Intellectually, I knew better. I had lived in Paris for 6 or 7 years back in the 1970s and early '80s. Some summers were hot — 1975 and, especially, 1976, for example — but the heat waves came only once in a blue moon and seldom lasted more than a couple of weeks.

Thinking back on it, I realize didn't really spend very many summers in France. I was working as a teacher back then, and I would take advantage of summers as a time to go back and visit family and friends in the U.S. — mostly in North Carolina and Illinois, where the summers could be steamy, but everything was air-conditioned. Fact is, I hadn't lived in the Loire Valley before 2003, and I hoped summer weather here wouldn't always be as hot. In fact, we've never really felt the need to have the house air-conditioned since that first summer.

This year we're seeing summertime flowers
a month or two earlier than usual.


Over the past eight years, we've had beautiful summers (2004, 2005) and we've had lousy summers (especially 2007). Most have been middling, like 2010, when the weather never could make up its mind. It was hot and humid one day, chilly and windy the next, and mild and pleasant the next. Overall, it wasn't bad, but I heard people grumbling about it. Our garden was a success, but the coolish weather meant tomatoes and eggplants didn't ripen until very late in the season.

After the heat wave of 2003 came the first winter we spent in Saint-Aignan. The '03-'04 winter was not particularly cold, but it was windy and wet. I don't think we had any snow that first winter, though I had seen snow in Saint-Aignan in February 2003, when I was here for a few days to work out some details about the house purchase. In January 2004, we had a week of high winds. I mean 40 to 60 miles an hour all day and night long for about a week. It seemed like it would never end. It wasn't a cold wind, but it was unnerving. We kept waiting for trees to fall or the power to fail.

We don't usually have roses until early June.

That first winter, we found out that the four windows in the back of our house, facing west — the windows in two bedrooms and two bathrooms — were totally inadequate to keep out cold drafts and even rain. In the middle of the night, the window in the bigger bedroom would suddenly pop open when a gust of wind hit the house. It happened even when the shutters were closed. The window latches were worn out. The windows were the French-style ones that open into the room, and they were hopelessly weather-beaten.

And then one morning, after a night of wind and rain, we got up to find a big puddle of water on the floor in the smaller bedroom. It was rain water. Luckily, the floor is tile. The window was closed as tight as it could be —it hadn't even blown open. But wind-driven rain had beaten against it so hard that water had come in all around it and fairly well flooded the room. We knew we had to take action. In early April, we had four new sliding, double-glazed windows put in on that side of the house, which takes the brunt of our rough weather.

A clover flower
Click the image to enlarge it.

So some summers can be hot and dry. We may be headed that way this year. Time will tell. It's already much drier than we'd like. We'll have a vegetable garden, and we can water it. Water costs, but we collect what rainwater we can collect — it's runoff from the roof of the house and the roof of the garden shed. A dry summer will mean a successful garden, but it will cost us if we have to use a lot of tap water on it.

The garden of 2007, however, was anything but successful. That year, the weather started out hot and dry in April but turned rainy and almost chilly in May. The rain and chill lasted until September. In July and August, weeds took over the garden plots. It was too muddy for us to do much about it. I remember going out one week to hack at and pull on the weeds as best I could, but my efforts were inadequate. It was a case of "too little too late."

Another early rose out in the garden

Oh, and in June 2007, we had downpours worthy of the monsoon rains that come with hurricanes on the Carolina coast. One June morning at about 8:00, water started pouring in through a new crack in the kitchen ceiling, falling on the microwave oven and a big transformer we use to convert French 220V current to the 110V current that some of our kitchen appliances require. All we could do was move things as fast as possible and hope we didn't get electrocuted. We mopped up. We had a roofer in, who said that debris on the roof had formed a dam, causing rainwater to back up and run in over and around the roof tiles.

Finally, that summer, the leaves on the tomato plants all turned black. The tomatoes themselves developed big black "bruises" on them. Most were lost to the damp chill. Like the grape-growers, we sprayed our plants with a product called "the Bordeaux mixture," a fungicide, but to no avail. Everybody wondered whether the local grape crop would come in or be ruined. Finally, in September, the weather suddenly turned beautiful and sunny, and the grapes were saved. It was too late for the tomatoes.

A cluster of acacia flowers...

In 2006, with the price of heating oil rising steadily, we had a wood-burning stove put in. We had a fireplace that wouldn't draw enough air, so every time we lit a fire in it the living room would fill up with smoke. The wood stove, with it's sealed firebox, solved that problem. Building a fire in it made the house a lot warmer and cost a lot less than running the oil-fired boiler all the time. It was another great step forward.

In late February 2010, we had a big windstorm that blew down dozens of trees all around us, including two in our yard. One of the tall local trees fell on the electrical wires that bring current up to the nine houses up on the hill where we live. For five days, we had no power. Thank goodness we had the wood stove for heat (the boiler won't work without electricity) and bottled gas for our cook stove.

...and a closeup

In California and other places where I've lived and worked, the weather was interesting, but it didn't matter much unless it really interfered with getting back and forth to work. Now it matters nearly every day. And there's never really a dull moment from that point of view. As I type this, I hear the morning news reporting how drought conditions are threatening farmers' crops all around France. That's the real danger right now.

03 May 2011

Rain, and Romo

We got a little more rain last night. Big fat raindrops slapped against the Velux roof windows for an hour or two, in two or three showers over the course of the evening. Rainfall seems to come in either 1 mm (a trace) or 6 mm (¼") quantities these days. We also had just a little bit of thunder and lightning.

I am really happy for anybody who decided to take a vacation trip to the north of France in April 2011. That person enjoyed fantastic weather. Down south, on the Côte d'Azur, Provence, or even in the Southwest, the weather wasn't quite so nice. That's a pattern I've noticed over the past 8 or 10 years. April is often dry and warm up north in France, but wet and chilly down south, near the Mediterranean.

Peonies in the back garden

Yesterday we made the drive over to « Romo » to do some shopping. Romorantin is one of the three largest towns in our département (Loir-et-Cher), with a population of about 20,000 (Saint-Aignan is about 4,000). There are more and more big-box stores over there as the years go by, including a Centre Leclerc "hypermarket." We needed outdoor chairs and our weekly groceries. Leclerc has a good selection of outdoor furniture, and at good prices.

Romo is about 40 kilometers/25 miles from our house. All the big hypermarkets (superstores) are about that distance from us — there are stores in Loches, Amboise, Blois, and Romo. It's not a trip we make often, because of the price of gas and the general hassle of going there. But the Centre Leclerc has a bigger selection of specialized merchandise than any store in the immediate Saint-Aignan area, so we drive over there or to one of the other hypermarkets several times a year.

On a recent walk, a caterpillar...

...and a butterfly out on the vineyard road

As for the price of gas, we filled the Peugeot's fuel tank up yesterday for the first time since March 9. The Peugeot is a little 206. It has a diesel engine and a 12-gallon fuel tank (that's U.S. gallons, which are smaller than British gallons). We put in 40 liters of diesel fuel — 10½ gallons — and it cost us 53 euros, or about $79.00 U.S. at today's exchange rate. We noticed that the diesel fuel prices at SuperU and Leclerc were exactly the same.

A couple of days ago this guy came and fished in the pond out back
for an hour or two. I don't know if he caught anything, or even if
he's really allowed to fish in a pond that is owned by the village.


On the way over, I decided to drive through the center of Romo rather than around the edges on the ring-road bypass, just for the view. It's a pretty little town, with a river, a large green park, and the nice narrow "main street." There's a Michelin-starred restaurant there, and a big new market hall. I noticed that the market is having a special "asparagus and strawberries day" next Wednesday. Those are two of the surrounding region's special springtime food products.

Here's how the back yard is looking these days.
The house is behind the apple, linden, and cedar trees.

It was one of those days when the shopping went well. The store actually had the outdoor chairs we wanted, so we were successful. Every success counts! Now we can set up our lawn tent, get out the table we bought a year or two ago, put the chairs around it, and start spending more time in the back yard. Let's hope the weather doesn't go south on us.

02 May 2011

Callie, bugs, and our walks

Callie goes crazy when she sees a fly, spider, or moth on the living room ceiling. She can spot one long before we ever notice the bug sitting there. You have to wonder how her eyes perceive the broad expanse of white ceiling. Does it look like sky to her? Outside, she reacts about the same way when she sees the moon, or the sun through clouds when it looks to her, I think, like the moon.

Callie the red border collie — she came
to live with us 4 years ago this week


She doesn't just notice the bug and stare at it, however. She has a special squealy whine she produces only in these moments. If either one of us gets a fly swatter and tries to chase the bug way, then Callie goes really wild. Her bark is with ear-piercing. She's been known to jump up on the furniture in her mounting excitement. She's totally out of control. As soon as the bug is captured, killed, or chased away, she calms back down immediately.

Callie watching me from her spot among the vines

Callie and I take a walk in the vineyard every day. One day we go out in the afternoon, and the next we go out in the morning. That's the schedule, ad infinitum. On the afternoons and mornings when I don't go on the walk, Walt does. It's a schedule we worked out years ago, and we both like it. Callie of course likes it. We humans each get one walk a day, and she gets two. I know Callie never gets tired of it, and I don't either, really.

This is Callie looking back and saying:
"Are we going this way today?"


She loves to run through the vines — not just up and down the rows, but also across them, under the support wires and vine canes. Sometimes she disappears from view behind all the green leaves, but I think she always knows where her human companion is. She also tries to lead the walk, deciding which path or direction she wants to go on. But she doesn't mind when one of us decides on a different course. She always follows, even it's at a distance.

Look at these pictures from early May and early June 2007...

01 May 2011

Greens again

I'm happy this morning to see that my transplanted greens have all "stood up" again. After planting them yesterday morning under what turned out to be a hot sun, I watched them all droop. Their leaves were nearly all flat on the ground, and looked wilted.

I watered them generously and we were lucky to have a mild night and morning. The water did the trick, I guess. I saved five mustard plants — we cooked the rest — and more than a dozen collard plants. I have more collard plants if anybody wants any.

The collard plants I put in yesterday were
mostly standing tall this morning.


Do you know that all cabbages are mustard plants? And vice-versa. One thing I read says that what we call "mustard greens" are actually pretty much any leafy cabbage plants that don't have some other name. Collards, kale, savoy cabbage, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower, and even colza, the plant which gives us "canola" oil are all cabbages, or mustards. (The word "colza" appears in my 1974 Webster's Collegiate Dictionary, but I don't think many Americans are familiar with it.)

Collard leaves in front; mustard in back

That explains why the fields of little yellow flowers you see in northern California are called "mustard," but in France the same fields of yellow flowers are called, in French, colza. The old name for colza was rape, and the old name for canola oil was rapeseed oil. The oil from the seeds these particular mustard plants has to be refined extensively to be palatable to humans, but in France they say it is the healthiest oil you can use in your cooking. We use huile de colza in our kitchen all the time, for cooking and in salad dressings.

I was afraid the transplanted greens might burn up
under yesterday's hot sun.


Yesterday I cooked a big batch of tender little collard and mustard leaves. It took a while to de-stem and wash them all, but it was worth it. The greens tasted slightly of mustard, but were sweet at the same time. I seasoned them with salt, pepper, hot red pepper flakes, and a couple of tablespoons of duck fat. I poached them in white wine with some veal stock added (veal stock, or fond de veau, is sold in powdered form in French supermarkets).

Here are the cooked greens.

Since we were having greens seasoned with duck fat (rather than bacon or some other pork fat), I decided to roast some potatoes in duck fat too. They were potatoes of the variety called Agata in France. They're good potatoes for roasting, frying, or mashing — in other words, they are mealy, not waxy.

And here is the lunch. I'd be happy to have
the same lunch again today.


To top it all off, Walt seasoned a duck breast filet — un magret de canard — with salt, pepper, and hot paprika, and then he grilled it over high heat until it was seared but still rare. It rested for 10 minutes off the grill under foil and a kitchen towel so that the heat and the juices of the meat would have time to penetrate into the meat evenly. It was amazingly good, I thought, and the greens and potatoes were perfect with it. Duck breast, a red meat cooked rare or even medium, is at least as good as nice beefsteak.

Now I'm hungry again. We have asparagus for lunch today, and a green salad, plus a little bit of duck breast prosciutto that's still left.