06 February 2015

Assurances - météo - cuisine

Assurances in French is what we call insurance in the U.S. Car insurance, in this case. Today is my day to go down to Saint-Aignan and modify my car insurance policy. I need to add the Citroën, which I'll go pick up on Monday morning, and I need to modify the coverage (le contrat) on the Peugeot. It really doesn't need to be covered tous risques (collision, liability, comprehensive — all that) now. It's not worth much any more.

Here in France you tell the insurance company how many kilometers you think you'll drive in the coming year, and you pay accordingly. If you go over the figure you gave them during the year, you have to go back and have the policy modified. I don't remember ever declaring what my maximum mileage would be when I was in California.

On the left: this seems to be the color of the Citroën. I found it somewhere on the web, with the RGB values specified.



Meanwhile, this is the kind of weather we've been having for a few days now. Low temperatures right around freezing, with a cold wind blowing, have brought us periodic morning snow flurries. The afternoons are slightly warmer. It could be worse.


So it's time for good, hot, comforting food. I've noticed that Berie the black cat is eating much more than he does in warmer weather, and we probably are doing the same. How about this sauté of pork tenderloin (filet mignon) with spices, raisins, chickpeas, and sweet potatoes?


Cut the tenderloin into chunks and rub the chunks with spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, cumin, fenugreek, smoked paprika, hot red pepper(piment fort), black pepper, and ginger. Sauté the pork with onions and garlic, and then add some water or broth to the pan to braise the meat with cooked chickpeas and, if you want, some raisins. After 30 minutes, add two or three sliced raw sweet potatoes to the pan. Ten minutes later, when the sweet potato is tender, it's done.

05 February 2015

Automobiles Citroën — a brief history

If you live in the U.S., where there are no Citroën dealerships and almost no Citroën cars on the road, you may think that the name Citroën applies mainly or exclusively to the famous old car called the 2CV or Deux Chevaux. You know, the car that looks like an old VW Beetle that might have been put together by somebody on an LSD trip.

I know that the name Citroën looks a lot like the French word citron, meaning "lemon." That's unfortunate, isn't it?

One of Citroën's first cars was this model A.


The Citroën car company was founded in 1919 by a French engineer (polytechnicien) named André Citroën. His factory was in Paris, on the Seine at the quai de Javel in the 15th arrondissement. Nowadays, that name has been changed to name the quai after him, along with a big park where the manufacturing facility used to stand. By 1920, Citroën was making more than 12,000 cars a year.






Célestine is one of Susan and Simon's Citroën Traction touring cars



In the 1930s Citroën designed and manufactured the revolutionary Traction Avant automobile. That's the one that came in any color you wanted as long as it was black, and it might be associated in your mind with 1930s-era gangsters. Traction Avant means "front-wheel drive." The Traction saved Citroën from bankruptcy. Our friends Susan and Simon of the Days on the Claise blog have two 1950s-vintage Tractions that they use to ferry tourists around on custom tours of the Loire Valley.



The legendary 2CV or Deux Chevaux




The Citroën 2CV was manufactured from 1948 until 1990. It was a "people's car" — inexpensive and sturdy, but basic. The name "two horses" didn't mean the car had just a two-horsepower engine, as some people might believe. The "horse" is a tax term in France. The Citroën C4 that I am buying has a 5CV engine, for example. It's real horsepower rating is 90.







A Citroën DS that I photographed in Alençon in 2001
The other model that Citroën was famous for was the DS, which was more of a luxury car — DS is partly a play on words because in French déesse means "goddess" — that the company manufactured from 1955 until 1975. It's the car with the famous hydraulic or hydropneumatique suspension. When you started the engine, the back end of the vehicle would rise up to the driving postion, and when you turned it off it would settle back down to its crouching position. The car's ride, as I remember it, was like that of a boat floating on gentle swells, and could almost make you seasick until you got used to it.



Today's little Citroën C3 is a "wink" at the old 2CV in looks.



In 1935, when André Citroën died, the company was taken over by the French tire manufacturer Michelin. In the 1970s, during the great oil crisis, Michelin tried to sell Citroën to Italy's Fiat, but the French government vetoed that move. Finally, in 1975, Citroën was taken over by Peugeot, and there it remains today. Citroën and Peugeot cars share many components and platforms, but the two brands still exist.





These days, Citroën has more than 13,000 employees and produces a full range of passenger and light utility vehicles. The C series has been successful — I'm acquiring a C4 — and the new DS series, while very different from the original DS cars, seems to be successful as well. The two brands Citroën and Peugeot combined produce nearly three million vehicles a year. None are sold in the U.S., however.

04 February 2015

Car memories and stories

In the days and years when I commuted back and forth to work in California, I was driving 20,000 to 25,000 miles (30,000 to 40,000 km) a year. When I say "driving" it's kind of a euphemism. A lot of the time I was sitting in traffic jams on freeways between San Francisco and Silicon Valley. I kind of burned out on spending a lot to time in cars, even though I've always really enjoyed driving. Here in France, we now drive fewer than 3,000 miles (5,000 km) annually, and that's fine by me.

For the first two years we were in San Francisco, in the late 1980s), I had a job in the city and commuted to work by bus or cable car. Then I found a better job in Silicon Valley. The car became a tool I needed to use to get to work and to get home, and I kept new cars. In California, I bought new cars in 1990, in 1993, and in 1996. They were VWs, each one bigger, more powerful, and more luxurious than the last. I managed to keep the last one for seven years. For several of those late years, my commute was short — only 25 miles in each direction. And for one of those years, I didn't work at all. I had been laid off.

In all, I also drove across the U.S. between coastal North Carolina and coastal California, a distance of about 3,000 miles (5,000 km), five times. Each trip took nearly a week. The first two times and the last one were with Walt. We drove his little Subaru to California from Washington DC in August 1986. That was fun — for four or five years we had been living first in Paris and then in DC, and walking to work and back home every day. We weren't burned out on driving. Walt stayed in California and I flew back to Washington to finish up the job I would be quitting there. Then he flew back to DC to help me pack up the apartment and we drove a truck full of our furniture and stuff across the country together, east to west, towing my own little Subaru behind it.


Fast forward 12 years. In 1998, after getting laid off from my Silicon Valley job, what did I do? I got in the car and drove for nearly a week to get to North Carolina. Just for fun, and to escape from the stress of commuting and working in the San Francisco area. As I said, I've always enjoyed driving but jeez did I hate sitting in traffic on freeways! When I got to North Carolina, I stayed for a week or 10 days and then my mother, her sister, and I set out to drive back to California. They said they had always wanted to drive across the continent. We had numerous adventures across the way, with stops in Alabama, Louisana, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, and California.

For all of the years we spent living and working in California, Walt and I kept two cars. Walt had some years of commuting and hated it too, but for many years he was able to leave his car in the garage at home and take public transit to work. He found good work in San Francisco, where we lived, but I never could. I had to go to Silicon Valley, 50 miles (80 km) south. That meant 100 miles a day, or 500 miles a week, in the car and in traffic jams. I never knew whether the 50-mile trip would take one hour or three. During those years we were also flying to Paris once or twice every year for vacations, just to keep our French up to date (and to enjoy the food). In California, I listened to a lot of French music in the car, on CDs, and pretended that I was living in France, not knowing how soon it would be true.

Walt ended up buying a Jeep Cherokee in the early '90s, and he kept it for the last 10 years we were in California. We would use it to go on driving and camping trips along the California coast, up into the Sierra Nevada mountains and to places like Death Valley and the national parks of southern California, Nevada, and Utah. I lost count of the number of times, starting in 1997, that we (or I alone) drove down to the desert near the Mexican border to see CHM, who had a house there then. It was nine or ten hours  in the car each way, mostly on freeways but also on wide, scenic two-lane roads through deserts and over or around big mountains, with little or no traffic. I really enjoyed those trips and the chance to get out of the city and see what the southwestern deserts were like.


Finally, in 2003 we sold our house in San Francisco and I sold my last VW, a very nice Passat that had quite a few miles on it. A young man from Palo Alto bought it. I was asking $5,000 for it, and he agreed to the price. He said he would get the money out of the bank the next day and bring it to me. I was surprised when two hours later that evening he rang the doorbell and said he had the money and was ready to go. He handed me a stack of $20 bills that he said he had gotten out of a cash dispenser using his American Express card. That would be 250 $20 bills. When I took them to the bank the next morning to put them in my checking account, I was afraid the clerks might think I was running drugs or something.

A few weeks later, we packed Walt's Jeep full of things we wanted to take with us to North Carolina and on to France, including the dog. We drove across the country one more time and spent a few weeks at my mother's house in N.C. while we waited for our French visas to come though. She had been nice enough to invite us to come and stay with her. That was our last trip across the country. The Jeep was very comfortable, and we had the time to drive the back roads and take a different route from any of the other times, going to places like Gallup, Santa Fe, and Tucumcari in the northern half of New Mexico; Oklahoma City and Tulsa in Oklahoma; Joplin and St. Louis in Missouri; and Springfield, Illinois, the Land of Lincoln (Abraham, that is). We also drove through eastern Kentucky and through the Great Smokey Mountains national park between Tennessee and North Carolina.

Anyway, even though we don't drive so much any more, we're now getting another car. We've had the Peugeot 206 for nearly a dozen years, after buying it used and in a hurry when we first got to Saint-Aignan because we absolutely had to have a car and renting one was getting to be just too expensive. I didn't think we'd keep the little Peugeot for very long, but I was wrong. Back in the early 1980s, when I lived in Paris (where I met Walt) I had a tiny Renault 4L for a year. That covered two of the three major automobile manufacturers in France. I've always wanted a Citroën and now I'm buying one. I hope it turns out to be as good a car as the Peugeot — which we're keeping — has been.

03 February 2015

Parting Glances

I'm busy and preoccupied right now, so I'm glad to finish this series of posts about the village of Montréal in Burgundy. I obviously really enjoyed the hours we spent there last October.


Part of it was probably that there were no cars and few people. We could walk and take photos as we liked, and we didn't have to worry about Callie. She's a good dog and stays close to us anyway.


I'm pretty sure I wouldn't want to live in Montréal however. There seemed to be little or no business activity or shopping opportunities there. There was a post office down on the main road, and also a café, but I didn't notice a bakery, a restaurant, or a grocery store.


Most of the houses in the old town were just beautiful. They came in several different styles, and the sunny weather made the old stones just glow. Some fall colors, flowers, and painted shutters added to the atmosphere.


The church and graveyard were also highlights of the visit. Somehow those parts of town and the houses and streets were immaculately maintained without making the place feel too much like a theme park or just replica of something authentic. It felt genuine.


As my title says, "parting glances" — above is a final shot of the Porte d'En-Bas, the lower gate to the old town, that I took as we were arriving back at the car to continue our route toward the village of Noyers.

We drove on to the nearby village of Thizy for a short stop. I just wanted to see what it looked like. As we got there, I noticed this sign that seemed to be inviting us to return to Montréal. Maybe someday we will. On that day in October, we turned to the left.

I'm of course preoccupied and busy because I'm getting ready to buy a car. The time has come, and the car I inspected and drove yesterday is probably the one I'll get. Walt is leaving it up to me to choose.

We don't need a new car. Unless I'm mistaken, we drove the Peugeot a total of 9,000 km over the past two years — that's less than 6,000 miles in 24 months, and it includes the trip to Burgundy as well as trips around our region: Blois, Tours, and the villages where friends of ours live. Having a different car won't change our driving habits.

I went and drove the car yesterday but I forgot to take my camera with me. Maybe I'll get a photo of the car today.