30 October 2020

Tajine de potiron et de dinde

We've been processing, preserving, cooking, and eating pumpkin every day for at least a week now. Walt grew pumpkins in our 2020 vegetable garden and we harvested a big crop of jumbo specimens — pumpkins are potirons in French. We gave two of them to some American friends who live five miles upriver from us, and another to our part-time neighbors who live in Blois. Just a day or two ago I gave one to some new neighbors who recently came to live in our hamlet.

With the pumpkins we've kept — and there is still one ripening that we haven't even cut into yet — we've made a few pints of pumpkin-tomato enchilada sauce with chili powder, onions, and garlic; a few pints of pumpkin-tomato sauce for pizzas and pasta, with oregano, garlic, and onion; and a savory pumpkin cake with bacon, spices, and cheese. We've also cooked some as one of the vegetables in a couscous, along with turnips, carrots, green beans, bell peppers, and artichoke hearts. Yesterday I decided to make a Moroccan-style tajine with pumpkin, onions, spices, dried apricots and prunes, and chunks of turkey breast meat. Here's a slideshow made up of nine pictures of that process.



Here's how you make it: Put 8 or 10 dried apricots and, optionally, a few prunes in warm water to plump them up. Then cut the turkey breast into cubes and dredge them in 3 or 4 tablespoons of tajine spices (see below). Sauté the turkey cubes in olive oil and then take them out of the pan (a wok is good, or a big skillet) and put them in a warm oven while you slice and cook a couple of onions in the pan that still has a little olive oil and some of the spices in it — add more oil or spices if you want, and add in a couple of tablespoons of honey. (You can make this with chicken too, of course.)

Add the re-hydrated apricots and prunes to the sautéed onions and pour a cup or so of water into the pan. Let all that cook together, covered, for a few minutes and then add the sautéed turkey plus some more water — just enough to barely cover the cubes of turkey meat. Reduce the heat to low and let the turkey, onions, and fruit simmer for 30 or 40 minutes. Toward the end of that cooking time, add a cup or so of cooked (canned) chickpeas.

Meanwhile, peel a big wedge piece of pumpkin (or abutternut or other winter squash) and cut the flesh into cubes. Melt some butter in a non-stick frying pan and sauté the cubes of pumpkin until they start to brown a little. When the turkey and onions are braised and tender, add the pumpkin cubes and let them cook for 15 minutes or until they're completely tender too. Stir everything together gently and serve hot with steamed rice, millet, or couscous "grain" (which is actually a form of pasta).

P.S. In the past I've posted about tajines many times. See those posts by clicking on this link and scrolling down. I also once posted a recipe for making your own tajine blend of powdered spices, known as ras-el-hanout ("the cook's blend"), which I found in the Joy of Cooking. Here it is again:

  • 2 Tbsp. ground ginger
  • 2 tsp. each black pepper, allspice, nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon, and turmeric
  • 1 tsp. coriander seeds
  • ¼ tsp. each cloves and powdered cayenne pepper (or more)

19 comments:

  1. I was just looking at your Tajine recipes yesterday. I haven't made one in several years now. However we're still in the midst of unpacking our belongings that were in storage, the kitchen is full of items to be put away or given away, and I don't think we've unearthed the Tajine vessel yet. That and my Ras-el-Hanout is in the port of Baltimore on it's way from Germany to here. Probably another two or three weeks before I see it. I guess that gives me time to formulate a plan. Pumpkin is an intriguing idea for a Tajine!

    -craig-

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    1. Bon courage with getting settled again. Et bon appétit!

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  2. I have bad memories from pumpkin, especially soupe au potiron!

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    1. One of my best food memories was soupe au potiron in a little restaurant out in the country somewhere. Can't remember where, but I remember how good the soup was. I know other French people who refuse to eat pumpkin. It's a wartime thing.

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    2. As far as soupe au potiron is concerned it is a pre-WWII thing. Apart a very few exceptions, I'm not a fan of the cucurbitacea family, squash especially.

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    3. What do you mean by squash? Courgettes? Butternuts? I know you eat hundreds of melons every summer. It's the same family. Pumpkins and other winter squashes are a little like tomatoes. They add sweetness to soups and other dishes.

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    4. You'll certainly agree with what I'm going to say. I am a living paradox. Even though I "used" to eat sugar as if there was no tomorrow, I don't like sweet food per se. Here, I get squash every so often, zucchini included, so badly prepared that I leave it most of the time. So, the sweetness doesn't do anything for me. The same goes with pastry here, much too much sugar in it. Let's put it this way, I like sugary liquids, but not sugary solids. Go figure, as a US appellate court judge said once.

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    5. Institutional food, I guess. I'm sorry. It must be so hard to eat that kind of cooking when you are someone who is used to and likes to cook for himself, to his own tastes. As for sweet cakes, Walt and I always cut the amount of sugar and also the amount of spice in half when we make a cake using an American recipe. Americans really do seem to have a highly developed sweet tooth.

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    6. Americans really do seem to have a highly developed sweet tooth.
      ...and aborted taste buds. Usually, here, as you said, the flavors, be it chocolate, vanilla, lemon, cinnamon, etc., are overwelming. I am given regularly a liquid supplement called Ensure; I request it to be cut in two with water, the taste, vanilla or chocolate, being so strong!

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  3. Ahhh, that looks so savory, great for a cold ,raw day like we've been having.

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    1. I have to say that we enjoyed the tajine. Our weather has suddenly turned dry and sunny. It's not supposed to last, but it is almost November. October was pretty miserable.

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  4. I really like tajine meals and I love pumpkin soup!

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  5. A fantastic presentation! thanks heaps!

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  6. I bet the turkey works well with this dish. Our low will be 45 tonight, so the weather is finally turning into fall now.

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  7. You can buy ras el hanout in supermarkets in the UK but think I’m going to give your homemade recipe for it a try.

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  8. Another wonderful recipe to improve my repertoire. We had your version of curried cauliflower last night, and what you call zucchini fritters (AKA pancakes) a couple of days ago.

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    1. Thanks for letting me know all that. We'll be making pumpkin fritters today — the deep-fried beignet kind, not the pancakes.

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    2. We have something or other from a recipe of yours at least once a week. My absolute favorite is butternut squash tagine.

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  9. Your tagine dinner would be something I would choose from a menu. Very appetizing!

    Mary in Oregon

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