24 November 2014

À boire et à manger

Paris, Right Bank, late October. The neighborhood: L'Arsenal. Along the river, toward the eastern end of the Ile Saint-Louis and along the Seine, a huge grange or warehouse was built in the 1500s and in it cannons were manufactured. And gunpowder too, of course. In 1563 the building exploded, and the sound was heard for many miles around.


The neighborhood is a lot quieter these days. If you're walking from the Marais over to the Gare d'Austerlitz, you can stop in at the Café Sully for refreshments. Now that I've looked at the web site and the menu, I wonder why I've never had lunch there. Next time, maybe. Right next door, there's an information center, Le Pavillon de l'Arsenal, with displays that show different aspects of the history and evolution of Paris architecture and urban planning. It's free, and it's very interesting. Go.


If you need a kilo of potatoes or oranges, or whatever, stop in chez Ben l'Epicier ("Ben the Grocer's place") on your way to the train station. Ben Maamar Abderrazak's shop is at 12, boulevard Morland, métro Quai de la Rapée, not far from the Pont d'Austerlitz and the station.

12 comments:

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    1. I thought so too, A.M., and I plan to go have a meal at the Café Sully the next time I get to Paris. It gets excellent TripAdvisor ratings.

      By the way, I'm sure you were right the other day in interpreting that Le Silence Nous Mine sign. Thanks for that. I would like to know what organization or person is putting those posters up around Paris.

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  2. Very nice, very nice :)

    Now, can you help me with a question I've long had, Ken? What is the difference between une épicerie and un supermarché (and, by supermarché, I'm thinking of the small, corner stores, like La Parisienne used to be, for example).

    Merci :)

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    1. Judy;
      A thousand words are worth a picture!

      http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89picerie

      http://www.larousse.fr/dictionnaires/francais/sup%C3%A9rette/75429

      ‎http://www.fauchon.com/fr/articles/epicerie-fine-en-ligne/

      http://www.lagrandeepicerie.com/catalogue/luxe.html

      http://www.hediard.fr/epicerie-fine/epicerie-de-luxe.htm

      http://www.lefigaro.fr/societes/2014/09/06/20005-20140906ARTFIG00032-les-epiceries-de-luxe-parisiennes-engagent-leur-revolution-culturelle.php

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    2. I guess I wouldn't call the typical corner grocery in Paris un supermarché, but rather une supérette orune épicerie. Most of the small towns and villages around Saint-Aignan have supérettes serving residents who don't drive or don't want to drive out to a supermarket for some purchases. In France now they talk a lot about les grandes surfaces, meaning Walmart-size stores including Centre Leclerc, Auchan, Géant, or Carrefour. That category contrastes with the corner stores, which are called les commerces de proximité.

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    3. Judy, I just noticed on a flyer that came in today's mail that the supérette or small supermarket in Saint-Aignan (not outside of town) calls itself un supermarché express.

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  3. When we took granddaughter Katie to Paris in 2011, Cafe Sully was our first stop after we dropped our luggage in our rental on rue Beautreillis. All I recall of the meal is that we enjoyed it, Katie had crepes, and that we were so happy to have finally arrived in our favorite city.

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    1. Chris, I didn't remember that you rented an apartment on the rue Beautreillis. Seems like that would be a great location. I do want to try the Sully the next time I go to Paris.

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    2. It was a great location at 18, rue Beautreillis. We were there during a heat wave (close to 100 three days in a row); the sun never hit the windows so it stayed cool. I got it through ParisBestLodge, but I don't see it listed there any more.

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  4. Given that very interesting bit of history, I'll bet that the Café Sully makes a soufflé to die for.

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    1. Dean, a pretty good bombe glacée also, in all likelihood.

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  5. a wide choice of fruit great idea in the street

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